Pilgrim's Wilderness: A True Story of Faith and Madness on the Alaska Frontier

Pilgrim's Wilderness: A True Story of Faith and Madness on the Alaska Frontier

by Tom Kizzia
Pilgrim's Wilderness: A True Story of Faith and Madness on the Alaska Frontier

Pilgrim's Wilderness: A True Story of Faith and Madness on the Alaska Frontier

by Tom Kizzia

Paperback(Reprint)

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Overview

Into the Wild meets Helter Skelter in this riveting true story of a modern-day homesteading family in the deepest reaches of the Alaskan wildernessand of the chilling secrets of its maniacal, spellbinding patriarch.
 
When Papa Pilgrim, his wife, and their fifteen children appeared in the Alaska frontier outpost of McCarthy, their new neighbors saw them as a shining example of the homespun Christian ideal. But behind the family's proud piety and beautiful old-timey music lay Pilgrim's dark past: his strange  connection to the Kennedy assassination and a trail of chaos and anguish that followed him from Dallas and New Mexico. Pilgrim soon sparked a tense confrontation with the National Park Service fiercely dividing the community over where a citizen’s rights end and the government’s power begins. As the battle grew more intense, the turmoil in his brood made it increasingly difficult to tell whether his children were messianic followers or hostages in desperate need of rescue. 

In this powerful piece of Americana, written with uncommon grace and high drama, veteran Alaska journalist, Tom Kizzia uses his unparalleled access to capture an era-defining clash between environmentalists and pioneers ignited by a mesmerizing sociopath who held a town and a family captive.

Product Details

ISBN-13: 9780307587831
Publisher: Crown Publishing Group
Publication date: 07/15/2014
Edition description: Reprint
Pages: 336
Sales rank: 196,697
Product dimensions: 5.10(w) x 7.90(h) x 1.00(d)

About the Author

TOM KIZZIA has traveled widely in rural Alaska for the Anchorage Daily News, and his work has appeared in the Washington Post and been featured on CNN.  His first book, The Wake of the Unseen Object, was named one of the best all-time nonfiction books about Alaska by the state’s historical society.  He lives in Homer, Alaska.

Read an Excerpt

Prologue:  Third Month
 

When the song of the snowmachine had faded down the valley, the sisters got ready to go.  Elishaba moved quickly through the morning cold and snow in heavy boots, insulated pants beneath her prairie skirt, ferrying provisions from the cabin - raisins, sleeping bags, two white sheets.   Jerusalem and Hosanna tore through the tool shed looking for a spark plug.  The plugs had been pulled from the old Ski-Doo Tundras that morning to prevent escape.

It was late in the third month and the days in Alaska were growing longer.  The overcast was high, the temperature holding above zero.  They knew they didn’t have much time. 

Mountains squeezed the sky above the old mining cabin.  Behind, a glacial cirque climbed to God’s white throne.  For weeks, Elishaba had been looking up, praying at the summits and calculating the odds.  But she knew there was only one way out.  The only trail, the one that had brought their family the attention they used to shun, ran thirteen miles down the canyon, slicing through avalanche zones and criss-crossing the frozen creek until it reached a ghost town. 

McCarthy was once a boom town of bootleggers and prostitutes.   These days it was the only place in the Wrangell Mountains that could still be called a community, though a mere handful of settlers remained all winter.  At first that isolation had been the attraction.  The Pilgrim Family had traveled thousands of miles to reach the end of the road in Alaska.  They had parked their trucks at the river and crossed a footbridge into town and continued on horseback and snowmachine and bulldozer and foot to their new home. 

Now McCarthy burned in the girls’ imaginations not as the end of the road but as a beginning.

Psalms and Lamb and Abraham looked on in horror.  Their big sisters weren’t even supposed to be speaking out loud.  They had been put on silence.  Yet here was Elishaba, calling out as she moved to and from the cabin, as if she no longer cared that they would report her.

Elishaba was the oldest of the fifteen brothers and sisters, a pretty, dark-eyed, dark-haired young woman, strong from a lifetime of homestead chores, from wrangling horses and hunting game - not a girl at all, at twenty-nine years, though she had never lived away from her family, never whispered secrets at a friend’s house or flirted with a boy.  She had been raised in isolation, sheltered from the evil world - no television, no newspapers, no books, schooled only in survival and a dark exegesis of God’s portents.  She was the special daughter, chosen according to the Bible’s solemn instruction.  Her legal name was Butterfly Sunstar. 

She gave the children a brave and reassuring smile.  They could see now that she was weeping and frightened and that she did indeed still care.  She cared about what would happen if she were caught.  She was pretty sure she would not survive her punishment.  But she also cared about how angry God might be if she succeeded and escaped into the world.   all her life she had been taught that leaving would be the most forbidden sin.  The punishment for that could turn out to be something infinitely worse.

Her sisters looked happy, though.  Hosanna had found a spark plug.  Perhaps their enterprise was favored after all.  Jerusalem - short, blond and cherub-cheeked, at sixteen the second-oldest girl - had declared she would not let Elishaba go alone. 
Elishaba and Jerusalem said swift goodbyes and climbed together on the little Tundra and lurched down the trail. 

They made it no farther than the open snow in the first muskeg swamp.  The snowmachine lurched to a stop.  The fanbelt had snapped.  Jerusalem used a wrench to pull the plug and started post-holing back up the frozen trail to the cabin.  Elishaba tried to mend the belt with wire and pliers but gave up. 

She looked about for an escape route.  The snow was too deep to flounder through, the trees too far away.  It felt like one of those dreams where she tried to run for her life and she couldn’t move.  She sat listening for the sound of a snowmachine returning up the valley from town.

Instead she heard Jerusalem coming on the other Tundra. 

They reloaded their gear and started off again.  A pinhole in the fuel line was spewing gasoline but if this too was a sign it went unseen.  They flew too fast around a curve and nearly hit a tree and slowed down. 

Jerusalem, holding on in back, started crying now too.  She was thinking about all they were leaving behind.  In modern Alaska, with its four-lane highways and shopping malls, her family was famous, recognized wherever they went.  People cheered when the Pilgrim Family Minstrels performed on stage.  They always made a beautiful picture.

The sisters prayed out loud.  Where the snow-packed trail turned uphill, they stopped and listened.  The world was heavy with silence.  They started again and worked hard climbing.  At the top they discovered the family’s other new snowmachine, hidden in trees too far from the cabin for anyone on foot to find it.  The sisters hesitated.  They talked about switching but the old Tundra was running well so they decided to continue but right there the engine died and that’s when they discovered the fuel leak.   Maybe the Lord was indeed helping them, they said.  They felt a surge of hope as they transferred their gear and continued on the third snowmachine.

There was so much about the world the sisters did not know.  Only lately had they realized how difficult the future would be because of this.  But there were things they knew about the world as it once was and these were skills they needed now.  Where the trail climbed over the riverbank, Elishaba veered away behind the snowy berm, so that someone coming the other way might not notice their track.  She drove into the spruce trees and shut down.  They could see the trail through the boughs.  The telltale smell of two-cycle exhaust lingered in the still cold air.  They pulled the two white sheets over themselves in the snow. 

The faint whine of a snowmachine, growing louder, was coming up the valley.
 
 

           

Table of Contents

Author's Note xi

Map xiv

Prologue: Third Month xvii

Part 1 Pilgrim's Trail 1

1 The Road to McCarthy 3

2 History's Shadow 27

3 The Bollard Wars 33

4 Sunlight and Firefly 58

5 Motorheads 67

6 The Rainbow Cross 80

7 Hostile Territory 94

8 Holy Bob and the Wild West 109

9 God vs. the Park Service 116

10 The Pilgrim's Progress 136

Part 2 The Farthest-Out Place 153

11 Hillbilly Heaven 155

12 Flight of the Angels 177

13 The Pilgrim Family Minstrels 194

Part 3 Out of the Wilderness 215

14 A Quiet Year 217

15 The Wanigan 220

16 Exodus 242

17 Pilgrim's Last Stand 251

18 The Man in the Iron Cage 271

Epilogue: Peaceful Harbor 283

Sources 293

Acknowledgments 307

Photography Credits 311

Reading Group Guide

1. Residents of McCarthy express nostalgia for life before the national park, before government rangers and extensive rules about bulldozers and cabin living. Do you think those old freedoms are worth preserving? What is the appropriate balance to strike between allowing pioneers the opportunity to follow their dreams and preserving nature in a pristine state, and between the rights of the individual and the interests of future generations?

2. McCarthy residents—even more than other Alaskans—tend to think of themselves as idealists pursuing off-the-grid lifestyles. Evil, when it comes, invades from the outside world. But the remote end-of-the-road community seemed to attract troubled, unstable individuals. Do you think the appearance of people like the mail-day murderer and the Pilgrim Family reveals something essential about McCarthy?

3. Do you think the abuse present in this book could have taken place anywhere, in a city apartment or on a quiet suburban street?

4. Once he left Texas, Robert Hale chose to raise his family on horseback in a rural setting amid the trappings of the Old West. How did it benefit Papa Pilgrim to deploy the mythology of the frontier as he did?

5. Robert Hale’s sons don’t believe he killed Kathleen Connally because, they say, he would have confessed to such a sin during his early devout days as a Christian. The Alaska prosecutor noted that such a confession could send a man to prison. Given the available evidence, do you think the death of his teenage bride was an accident?

6. The narrative doesn’t progress chronologically, from Bob Hale’s boyhood in Texas through New Mexico to Alaska. Instead, two story lines proceed in parallel for the first half of the book. Why do you think the author structured the story as he did?

7. What role did music play in the lives of the Pilgrim Family?

8. The Pilgrim children were denied access to movies and books. Why did Papa Pilgrim allow a single book, the seventeenth-century allegory The Pilgrim’s Progress, in their home? Do you think there is an innate need for stories in our lives? How have the children used the Bible’s stoies to explain their imprisonment and recovery?

9. How do you feel about the descriptions of abuse in the family? The author remains fairly dispassionate in tone and borrows some of the family’s biblical euphemisms to depict the horrors unfolding. Is understatement an effective way to describe trauma, or does it leave you wanting to know more detail?

10. At one point, the children’s mother, Country Rose, was forced to hold her sons’ hands as they were strapped to the whipping barrel and lashed. Is Country Rose another victim of Papa’s, or should she have done more to protect her children? What about the older sons? Were they wrong not to report whatever abuse they witnessed?

11. What about Elishaba? Should she have spoken up to her siblings, or to state authorities, rather than try to handle everything herself? Why would anyone remain in such an abusive situation?

12. Why do you think Papa Pilgrim precipitated a war with the National Park Service so quickly? How did he benefit from external conflict?

13. At one point, the Park Service planned to send forty-three personnel to investigate the Pilgrim Family’s actions in the park, including an armed SWAT team to guard forensic biologists. Even after backing off, the government spent at least a half-million dollars on its response. Was this an effective way to deal with the situation? The family’s defenders felt the government wanted to make an example of these “last pioneers” to establish their primacy in the mountains. Do you agree?

14. The author switches to first person to tell part of the story. Does this weaken the omniscient voice used elsewhere, or strengthen it? What does the author’s personal story say about the pioneering legacy that motivates so many characters in the book?

15. In many ways, the views of the Buckinghams were as rigidly fundamentalist and patriarchal as those professed by Papa Pilgrim. What was the difference between the two families? Could a non-Christian family have intervened and played the same role as rescuers?

16.  If the Buckinghams hadn’t entered the story, was there another way out for the Pilgrim children? What do you think might have happened?

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