Hardcover
-
PICK UP IN STORECheck Availability at Nearby Stores
Available within 2 business hours
Related collections and offers
Overview
But The A.O.C. Cookbook is much more than just a collection of recipes. Because Goin is a born teacher with a gift for pairing seasonal flavors, this book is full of wonderful, eye-opening information about the ingredients that she holds dear. She takes the time to talk you through each one of her culinary decisions, explaining her palate and how she gets the deeply developed flavor profiles, which make even the simplest dishes sing. More than anything, Goin wants you to understand her techniques so you enjoy yourself in the kitchen and have no problem achieving restaurant-quality results right at home.
And because wine and cheese are at the heart of A.O.C., there are two exciting additions. Caroline Styne, Goin’s business partner and the wine director for her restaurants, presents a specific wine pairing for each dish. Styne explains why each varietal works well with the ingredients and which flavors she’s trying to highlight, and she gives you room to experiment as well—showing how to shape the wine to your own palate. Whether you’re just grabbing a glass to go with dinner or planning an entire menu, her expert notes are a real education in wine. At the back of the book, you’ll find Goin’s amazing glossary of cheeses—all featured at A.O.C.—along with the notes that are given to the waitstaff, explaining the sources, flavor profiles, and pairings.
With more than 125 full-color photographs, The A.O.C. Cookbook brings Suzanne Goin’s dishes to life as she continues to invite us into her kitchen and divulge the secrets about what makes her food so irresistibly delicious.
Product Details
ISBN-13: | 9780307958235 |
---|---|
Publisher: | Knopf Doubleday Publishing Group |
Publication date: | 10/29/2013 |
Pages: | 448 |
Sales rank: | 1,134,282 |
Product dimensions: | 8.34(w) x 9.46(h) x 1.36(d) |
About the Author
Caroline Styne was raised in Los Angeles and has been in partnership with Suzanne Goin since the opening of their first restaurant, Lucques, in 1998. She runs the business operations of their five restaurants, and has been twice nominated for Outstanding Restaurateur by the James Beard Foundation. Styne also serves as the wine director for the entire restaurant group. She is married to art dealer Michael Kohn, with whom she was two children.
Read an Excerpt
Grilled hangar steak with sweet peppers, cherry tomatoes, and chimichurri
Many years ago, right after my father passed away, my friend the punk-rock chef guru Fred Eric invited me to assist him at a cooking festival in Rio de Janeiro. I have to say it was one of the wackiest of all my culinary adventures ever. It turns out that the man who arranged the whole event was a raging cocaine fiend and had not actually “arranged” anything at all! Well, that’s not completely true. We did have hotel rooms and what looked like an amazing itinerary. But, the first day, Fred and I stood outside our hotel for 4 hours waiting for a mysterious culinary expert who was supposed to take us to the market and then on to our host restaurant to prep for the first event, which was, of course, that evening. Long story short, the host restaurant didn’t exist, and the crazy coked‑up guy placed us at some friend’s restaurant, where they plied us with Caipirinhas made with Bolivian coca-leaf liquor and tried to make us cook—let’s just say things got very ugly from there on out.
As soon as I got over the once-horrifying, now hilarious moments, I remembered having some of the most delicious meat of my life served in more ways than you can imagine—roasted on long skewers, in outdoor pits, and jury-rigged barbecues at the town market. As much as I was craving salads and vegetables after a few days, I told myself, when in South America, just indulge your inner carnivore. One of the most delicious ways to do that is with grilled steak seasoned with a traditional Argentinian warmed herb-and-olive oil sauce called chimichurri.
As you may have realized by now, I am on the constant prowl for new olive-oil-and-herb-based sauces. Something about the way that silky olive oil and the brightness and power-packed flavor of fresh herbs meld with meat juices is so perfectly balanced for my palate. The oil turns the natural juices into a sauce, and the herbs lift and counter the richness of the meat. But, whereas I tend toward the “soft” herbs, such as parsley, mint, and cilantro, in my herb salsas, chimichurri is made with tougher, more sturdy, dark-and-earthy-flavored members of the herb family. Rosemary, thyme, oregano, and even bay leaf are minced and warmed in olive oil with charred jalapeño and red-wine vinegar. This is a strong, bold gaucho to pistou’s delicate mademoiselle.
3 pounds hangar steak
2 tablespoons thinly sliced chile de árbol
1 tablespoon cracked black pepper
2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon thyme leaves
1 jalapeño
1 teaspoon oregano
½ teaspoon rosemary leaves
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus 3 tablespoons or so for brushing the steak
1 bay leaf
1 tablespoon red-wine vinegar
1½ teaspoons sweet paprika
6 large bell peppers (about 3 pounds), julienned
¼ cup sliced garlic
½ pint cherry tomatoes, cut in half
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
6 ounces cleaned arugula
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Light the grill.
Trim the hangar steak of excess fat and sinew, if any (it doesn’t usually need much trimming). At least an hour before serving, season the hangar steak with 1 tablespoon sliced chile, the cracked black pepper, and 1 tablespoon thyme. Leave out at room temperature to temper. (Or, of course, you can refrigerate for later. Just make sure you take the meat out to temper at least an hour before serving.)
To make the chimichurri, char the jalapeño on all sides on a medium-hot grill, or on the burner of a gas stove, or in the broiler, until it is completely blackened. Place it in a small paper bag, and close it tightly (peppers can leak, so place the bag on a plate). Let the pepper steam for about 10 minutes, and then remove the seeds and chop the flesh of the jalapeño, including the charred skin, and place them in a medium sauté pan with ½ cup olive oil.
Mince the oregano, rosemary, and remaining 1 teaspoon thyme. Bring the jalapeño in oil to a simmer over medium-low heat, and then remove from the heat, and add the minced herbs, the bay leaf, the vinegar, and the paprika. Leave the chimichurri in the pan, off the heat, and let the herbs infuse for at least 1 hour.
Meanwhile, stew the peppers. Heat a large sauté pan over high heat for 1 minute. Swirl in ½ cup olive oil, and then add the bell peppers. Season with remaining 1 tablespoon thyme, 1 tablespoon salt, and 1 teaspoon ground pepper. Turn the heat down to medium, and sauté for 3 to 4 minutes, until the peppers start to wilt. Add the sliced garlic and the remaining 1 tablespoon sliced arbol chile, and cook for another 10 minutes, stirring often, until the peppers are completely tender. Turn off the heat.
When the coals are broken down, red, and glowing, season the steak generously with salt, and brush it lightly with 3 tablespoons olive oil. Place the meat on the hottest part of the grill, to get a nice sear on the outside. Cook for about 3 minutes, turn the meat a quarter-turn, and cook for another minute or two. Turn the meat over, and move it to a cooler spot on the grill. Cook for another minute or two for medium-rare. Rest the steaks on a wire rack set over a baking sheet.
In a large salad bowl, gently toss the arugula with the warm peppers, the remaining 1 tablespoon lemon juice, salt, and pepper. Taste for balance and seasoning, and divide among six large dinner plates. Set the pan with the chimichurri on the stove over medium-high heat. When it starts to boil, add the cherry tomatoes, and season with salt and pepper. Cook for 30 seconds, shaking the pan, as the tomatoes blister a little and release their juices. Squeeze in about 1 tablespoon lemon juice, toss in the parsley, remove from the heat, and taste for seasoning. Slice the steak against the grain, lay the slices over the arugula, and spoon the sizzling cherry tomatoes in chimichurri over the steak and around the plate.
Wine Note:
I love the Argentinian influence on this dish and am, of course, drawn to that country’s dark and seductive wines for pairing. The Mendoza region produces outstanding Malbec, which is a really fabulous accompaniment to grilled meat. Malbec tends to show deep cocoa-infused black fruit notes with touches of smokiness and grippy tannins. These darker aspects of the wine are very much like the sweet charred flavors of the steak itself. The wine also tends to show a good dose of acid, which will work seamlessly with the bright-green herbs in the chimichurri and the tomato.
Fattoush salad with fried pita, cherry tomatoes, crumbled feta, and sumac
Fattoush is the Arabic word for a traditional salad made in most Middle Eastern countries, originally as a vehicle to use up stale leftover pita bread. I think I must just be a leftover lover, because so many of my favorite foods—stuffings, daubes, terrines, meringues—all evolved from using up excess or old product so it wouldn’t go to waste. Traditionally, the stale pita is torn into bigger-than-bite-sized pieces, fried, and then tossed with lettuces and seasonal vegetables.
I’m sure there are as many “recipes” for fattoush as there are cooks, but I credit the key to our delicious version to Brian Wolff—one of our A.O.C. chefs in the early days, who was determined to make a better fattoush than the one he ate every Sunday at the local Middle Eastern restaurant in his San Fernando Valley neighborhood. Besides, of course, the super-farm-fresh ripe and crispy ingredients, the secret behind this salad is the dressing—and it’s the touch of cream in the dressing that really brings this fattoush to greatness.
For me there are two types of salads, the ones that need to be gently and carefully tossed, and the more rugged ones with bold-flavored dressings—like escarole with anchovies and Parmesan, the farro salad with spring vegetables, and this fattoush, which I like to toss really well, almost massaging the dressing into the greens and other components. The flavors and textures really need to be brought together and integrated to create one glorious whole. It’s amazing to me that you can give the same ingredients, and even the same dressing, to two different cooks, and, between the seasoning and the way the salad is dressed and tossed, you can end up with two very different results. So remember to toss this salad well; get your hands in there, make sure every element is getting well coated, and taste. You actually want the tomatoes to break up a tiny bit, so their juices meld with the creamy lemon dressing and bring all the flavors of the salad together.
3 pita breads
½ cup plus 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 clove garlic
¼ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice (about 2 lemons)
2 tablespoons heavy cream
2 large heads romaine lettuce
1 small red onion
3 Persian cucumbers, or 1 hothouse cucumber
½ pint cherry tomatoes
¼ cup chopped flat-leaf parsely, plus ½ cup whole fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves
¼ pound feta cheese
¼ cup mint leaves
1 tablespoon ground sumac
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 400°F.
Cut the pita bread into rustic 1-inch squares, and toss, using your hands, with 3 tablespoons olive oil until the pita is well coated and saturated. Spread on a baking sheet, and toast for about 20 minutes, tossing once or twice, until the pita squares are golden and crispy. (You can also deep-fry the pita if you like.)
Using a mortar and pestle (or the side of a knife on a cutting board), crush the garlic clove with a little salt, and then transfer it to a mixing bowl. Add the lemon juice and a heaping ¼ teaspoon salt to the bowl. Whisk in the remaining ½ cup olive oil, and the cream. Taste for balance and seasoning.
Cut each head of romaine in half lengthwise, and place them cut-side down on a cutting board. Make three long slices lengthwise, then turn the romaine and chop across the slices into ½-inch-sized pieces. Clean the lettuce, spin it dry, and place in a large mixing bowl.
Thinly slice the onion. Cut the cucumbers in half lengthwise, and cut them on the diagonal into ¼-inch-thick slices. Cut the cherry tomatoes in half. Add the onion, cucumbers, and tomatoes to the romaine, and toss with the dressing, the chopped parsley, toasted pita, half the feta, ¼ teaspoon salt, and some freshly ground pepper. Taste for balance and seasoning. Gently toss in the whole parsley and mint leaves, and arrange on six dinner plates. Sprinkle the remaining 2 ounces feta and the sumac over the top of the salads.
Wine Note:
This is one of my all-time favorite A.O.C. salads, and one that I have probably eaten over a hundred times. Though the crispy pita adds an indulgent, rich crunch, the essence of this salad is very clean, calling for a wine that is similarly so. I’ve found that the best match for this dish is a white wine with a savory core and notes of bright-green herbs, like Assyrtiko from Greece, which is lean, refreshing, and kind of unfruity. The wine almost becomes an extension of the salad, creating a seamless connection between the two, while also allowing the sweetness of the tomatoes to shine through.
Grilled fig leaf panna cotta with figs and melon sorbet
1/4-ounce package (2 1/2 teaspoons) Knox powdered gelatin
5 or 6 fresh fig leaves, washed and dried
2 cups heavy cream
1 cup whole milk
1/2 cup sugar
Vegetable oil, for molds
2 tablespoons crème fraîche or yogurt
1 recipe Walnut Pain de Gênes (recipe in book)
1 recipe Walnut Lace Cookies (recipe in book)
9 ripe figs
1/2 ripe cavaillon, honeydew, or other melon
1 recipe Melon Sorbet (recipe in book)
Place 1/4 cup cold water in a large bowl, sprinkle the gelatin over it, and gently swirl the bowl to combine. Using tongs, gently grill 2 or 3 fig leaves for about 2 minutes, rotating frequently and being careful not to burn them. Or, alternatively, fan each leaf over a gas stove, without directly touching the flame, until the leaf begins to smell toasted. It is important that the leaves get toasted and have slightly golden- brown spots and edges but are not burned.
Combine the cream, milk, and fig leaves in a medium saucepan, and bring to a boil over high heat. Turn off the heat, cover, and let sit for 30 minutes, allowing the fig leaves to steep in the hot liquid. Strain the leaves from cream mixture, discard them, and return the liquid to the saucepan. Heat this cream mixture over medium heat to a scald, add the sugar, and stir until it dissolves. Slowly whisk the cream mixture into the bloomed gelatin until completely incorporated. Chill the cream mixture over an ice bath, stirring occasionally, until it’s at room temperature or slightly cool.
Prepare six 3- inch ring molds (or individual ramekins) by lightly brushing vegetable oil on the inside surfaces. Pour a small amount of the cream mixture into a bowl, and whisk in the crème fraîche or yogurt. Then whisk that thickened cream– crème- fraîche mixture back into the cream. (Tempering the cream this way creates a very smooth and silky panna cotta.) Pour the panna- cotta cream into the prepared molds, and chill in the refrigerator for 2 to 3 hours, until set. When ready to serve, cut the remaining three fig leaves in half and place them on each of six dessert plates. Cut six 3- inch circles of walnut pain de Gênes and place one in the middle of each fig leaf. Center one walnut lace cookie atop each cake. Carefully unmold the panna cottas on top of each cake- cookie stack. (To unmold, gently press your finger down on the panna cotta close to the edge, pulling lightly inward, to the center, and then moving your finger along the perimeter of the panna cotta. When f ipped upside down, it should pop right out.) Trim the stems of the figs, and cut each one in half. Place one fig half on top and one fig half on either side of each panna cotta. Thinly shave the melon with a vegetable peeler; weave the slices around the plates, and place scoops of melon sorbet nestled among the fruit.
Table of Contents
Acknowledgments xiii
Introduction 3
Caroline Styne's Introduction 11
cheese
Bacon-Wrapped Dates with Parmesan 21
Fried Tetilla with Quince Paste and Romesco 23
Young Goat Cheese with Dried Figs and Saba 26
Seal Bay Triple Cream with Poached Cherries and Hazelnuts 28
Torta Gorgonzola with Walnuts in Honey 30
charcuterie
Chicken Liver Crostini with Pancetta 36
Duck Sausage with Candied Kumquats . 39
Pork Rillettes with Pickled Onions and Cornichons 41
Foie Gras Terrine with Sweet-and-Sour Prunes 45
Speck with Apples, Apple Balsamic, and Arugula 49
salads
Alex's Famous Salad Dressing 53
spring
Grilled Leeks and Artichokes with Burrata and Salbitxada 57
Sweet Pea Pancakes with Dungeness Crab and Red Onion Crème Fraiche 61
Spring Vegetable Salad with Farro and Meyer Lemon 63
Arugula and Cherries with Pickled Rhubarb and Fresh Ricotta 65
summer
Corn, Summer Squash, and Avocado with Chile-Lime Dressing 67
Fattoush Salad with Fried Pita, Cherry Tomatoes, Crumbled Feta, and Sumac 70
Heirloom Tomatoes with Marinated Labneh, Purslane, and Green Harissa 73
Peach and Arugula Salad with Burrata, Cumin, and Toasted Almonds 76
Fall
Young Escarole with Anchovy Dressing, Pecorino, and Torn Croutons 77
House-Smoked Black Cod with Endive, Persimmon, and Lemon Cream 79
Arugula and Autumn Grapes with Goat Cheese, Pecans, and Saba Vinaigrette 82
Dandelion and Roasted Carrot Salad with Black Olives and Ricotta Salata 84
winter
Chopped Salad Dijonnaise with Apples, Bacon, Roquefort, and Walnuts 86
Little Gems with Reed Avocados, Cara Cara Oranges, and Cilantro 89
Endive with Beets, Blood Oranges, Kumquats, and Charmoula 91
Roasted Kabocha Squash with Dates, Parmesan, and Pepitas 94
fish
spring
Alaskan Halibut with Carrot Purée, Asparagus, and Pistou 103
Trout Wrapped in Grape Leaves with Green Rice, Dill Yogurt, and Capers 107
Roasted Cod with Artichokes Barigoule, Braised Bacon, Aïoli, and Black Olives 110
Wild Salmon with Spinach Soubise, Wilted Leeks, and Meyer Lemon Butter 113
summer
Grilled Arctic Char with Arugula and Cherry Tomato-Anchovy 116
Brown Butter
Grilled Snapper with Couscous, Apricots, Yogurt, and Pistachio Aillade 119
Pan-Roasted Halibut with Blue Crab, Early Girls, and Horseradish Crème Fraîche 123
California Sea Bass with Tomato Rice, Fried Egg, and Sopressata 125
fall
Alaskan Black Cod with Kabocha Squash, Golden Raisins, and Pedro Ximenez 128
Fried Oysters with Celery Root Rémoulade and Watercress 131
Grilled Orata with Cauliflower, Fregola, and Persimmon-Pomegranate Salsa 134
Albacore Crudo with Avocado, Cucumber, and Ruby Grapefruit 137
winter
Black Bass with Fennel Puree, Winter Citrus, and Green Olives in Green Harissa 140
Atlantic Sea Scallops with Saffron Potatoes and Blood Orange-Meyer Lemon Salsa 143
Pink Snapper with Coconut Rice, Peanuts, and Kumquat Sambal 147
Wild Striped Bass with Roasted Beets, Watercress, and Blood Orange Butter 151
meat
spring
Mustard-Grilled Chicken with Spinach, Pine Nuts, Pecorino, and Soft Egg 163
Grilled Pork Chops with Cornbread-Chorizo Stuffing and Poached Cherries 167
Lamb Paillards with Risotto Carbonara, English Peas, and Chanterelles 170
Veal Saltimbocca with Mortadella, Mozzarella, Sage, and Marsala 173
summer
Grilled Hanger Steak with Sweet Peppers, Cherry Tomatoes, and Chimichurri 176
Crispy Pork Belly with Peaches, Ricotta Salata, and Abbamele 179
Slow-Roasted Lamb Sirloin with Skordalia, Lima Purée, and Cucumber Yogurt 183
Grilled Chicken with Fresh Garbanzos, Corn, and Chile-Cumin Butter 187
fall
Grilled Quail with Couscous, Walnuts, and Pomegranate Salsa 190
Lamb Merguez with Eggplant Jam, Roasted Cherry Tomatoes, and Green Olives 192
Braised Duck with Madeira, Kale Stuffing, and Dates 197
Beef Brisket with Slow-Roasted Romano Beans and Black Olive Aioli 201
winter
Coq au Vin with Bacon, Potato Puree, Cipollini Onions, and Black Trumpets 206
Pork Cheeks with Polenta, Mustard Cream, and Horseradish Gremolata 209
Grilled Duck Breast with Preserved Citrus Peel and Sweet Potato Purée 213
Pork Confit with Caramelized Apples and Cabbage in Red Wine 216
vegetables
spring
English Peas with Saffron Butter and Pea Shoots 225
Fava Bean Purée with Burrata and Fava Bean Pesto 227
Morels and Pea Shoots with Green Garlic, Polenta, and Mascarpone 229
Crushed Fingerlings with Crème Fraîche and Chives 231
summer
Corn Pudding with Poblanos and Queso Fresco 232
String and Shell Bean Ragout with Tapenade 234
Haricots Verts Niçoise with Summer Squash and Opal Basil 237
Stuffed Squash Blossoms with Green Romesco 239
fall
Young Broccoli with Garlic and Chile 243
Balsamic-Glazed Brussels Sprouts with Pancetta 245
Turmeric-Spiced Root Vegetables with Kaffir Lime Yogurt and Mint Chutney 247
Parsnips and Turnips with Sage and Prunes 250
winter
Sweet Potatoes with Bacon, Spinach, and Romesco 253
Long-Cooked Cavolo Nero 255
Wild Mushrooms Persillade 257
Farro and Black Rice with Mustard Greens, Currants, and Pine Nuts 259
from the wood-burning oven
Clams with Sherry, Green Garlic, Favas, and Almond Aïoli 265
Arroz Negro with Squid and Saffron Aïoli 268
Brioche with Prosciutto, Gruyere, and a Sunny-Side-Up Egg 271
Roasted Cauliflower with Curry and Red Vinegar 274
Lamb Meatballs with Spiced Tomato Sauce, Mint, and Feta 277
Salt Cod-Potato Gratin with Piquillo Peppers, Currants, and Mahón 279
Torchio with Kabocha Squash, Radicchio, Walnuts, and Taleggio 283
desserts
spring
Frozen Meyer Lemon Meringue Tart with Gingersnap Crust and Blueberry Compote 292
Chocolate Mascarpone Tart with Pistachios in Olive Oil 297
Sticky Toffee Pudding with Blood Orange, Tangerine, and Whipped Crème Fraîche 301
Bing Cherries with Walnut-Chocolate Tart and Vanilla Ice Cream 305
summer
Watermelon and Strawberry Coupe with Torn Mint 309
Nectarine and Blackberry Galette with Buttermilk Ice Cream 313
Crème Fraîche Cake with Santa Rosa Plums and Pistachios in Olive Oil 319
Grilled Fig Leaf Panna Cotta with Figs and Melon Sorbet 323
fall
Vanilla Pot de Creme with Dulce de Leche, Marcona Almonds, and a Layer of Chocolate 327
Ricotta Cheesecake with Dried Fruit Compote and Walnut Biscotti 329
S'mores with Caramel Popcorn and Chocolate Sorbet 333
Roasted Pear Crisp with Cranberries and Yogurt Sherbet 339
winter
Pink Lady Apple Crostata with Whipped Mascarpone and Armagnac Prunes 342
Spiced "Pumpkin" Fritters with Chocolate Sauce and Candied Pepitas 345
Butterscotch Pot de Creme with Salted Cashew Cookies 349
Persimmon Cake with Crème Fraîche and Maple Pecans 351
A.O.C. Cheese 355
Sources 413
Index 415