Bread Book: Ideas and Innovations from the Future of Grain, Flour, and Fermentation [A Cookbook]
368Bread Book: Ideas and Innovations from the Future of Grain, Flour, and Fermentation [A Cookbook]
368eBook
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Overview
“The most rewarding thing about making bread is that the process of learning never ends. Every day is a new study . . . the possibilities are infinite.”—from the Introduction
More than a decade ago, Chad Robertson’s country levain recipe taught a generation of bread bakers to replicate the creamy crumb, crackly crust, and unparalleled flavor of his world-famous Tartine bread. His was the recipe that launched hundreds of thousands of sourdough starters and attracted a stream of understudies to Tartine from across the globe.
Now, in Bread Book, Robertson and Tartine’s director of bread, Jennifer Latham, explain how high-quality, sustainable, locally sourced grain and flours respond to hydration and fermentation to make great bread even better. Experienced bakers and novices will find Robertson’s and Latham’s primers on grain, flour, sourdough starter, leaven, discard starter, and factoring dough formulas refreshingly easy to understand and use.
With sixteen brilliant formulas for naturally leavened doughs—including country bread (now reengineered), rustic baguettes, flatbreads, rolls, pizza, and vegan and gluten-free loaves, plus tortillas, crackers, and fermented pasta made with discarded sourdough starter—Bread Book is the wild-yeast baker ’s flight plan for a voyage into the future of exceptional bread.
Product Details
ISBN-13: | 9780399578854 |
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Publisher: | Clarkson Potter/Ten Speed |
Publication date: | 12/21/2021 |
Sold by: | Random House |
Format: | eBook |
Pages: | 368 |
File size: | 128 MB |
Note: | This product may take a few minutes to download. |
About the Author
Jennifer Latham is Tartine’s director of bread and manages the bread-making teams in Northern and Southern California, collaborating with Robertson on innovations and techniques. She and Robertson cowrote and recorded the Getting Started with Sourdough audiobook.
Liz Barclay is a photographer, creative director, and visual artist with a passion for food, music, art, and culture. Her clients range from the New York Times, Vogue, and The New Yorker to Nowness, Nike, Capitol Music Group, and Apple. Barclay is also an ambassador and volunteer with CoachArt, Food Bank for New York City, and Edible Schoolyard Project.
Read an Excerpt
Introduction
The most rewarding thing about making bread is that the process of learning never ends. Every day is a new study. Scores of factors, including the temperature, ambient humidity, type of grain, and age of the flour, influence how the dough develops. To end up with a consistent loaf, the baker must make hundreds of micro-adjustments daily. Even if a baker were to make only country bread every day for the rest of their life, the process of learning, refining, and thinking about that one dough would never be perfected. Making naturally leavened bread engages a living process that grows and changes each day. When you then consider various styles of bread—baguettes, pan loaves, and slab breads, to name a few—as well as different grains, milling techniques, fermentation times, and non-grain inclusions, the possibilities are infinite.
I have always had a strong drive to learn and innovate—by nature I’m never content when resting—and this has influenced how Tartine operates. Bakeries in general are expected to be consistent and predictable. People want a good cup of coffee and a morning pastry along with fresh hot bread—daily provisions—and we strive impossibly hard to deliver that consistency. But operating the bakery more from my chef’s perspective and less from a traditional baker’s approach has led us to explore what an open-all-day neighborhood bakery could become. I’m constantly asking myself and our bakers and chefs, How can we make this better? No tenet of what we do goes unexamined. It’s always worth scrutinizing the assumptions we make as a team and deciding whether they should be held, adapted, or discarded. This is how Tartine bread came about in the first place: by starting with the idea of a loaf and then building on it in unconventional ways in the context of modern baking while staying deeply rooted in tradition.
The central innovation in recent Tartine bread history has been our renewed and more heightened focus on flour sourcing. I was taught the importance of sourcing good grain and flour by Richard Bourdon, my first mentor in bread baking. At Tartine, we have always used sustainably farmed and milled grains, but several years ago, I decided to dive deeper in my relationships with grain breeders, farmers, and millers. I had been obsessively focused on making bread and the process of fermentation for two decades and then I noticed that my chef friends were having a bit more fun coloring outside the lines of traditional categories of cuisine. It was time for me to apply this same approach to baking.
Six years ago, I started to spend some time at the Bread Lab at Washington State University. I wanted to explore grain varieties and milling techniques with an eye to innovate. There I met grain breeders, farmers, and millers ready for change. We were all asking ourselves what makes grain and flour good. At the Bread Lab, they were looking at different types of grains—both new and ancient varieties—and selecting for flavor and nutrition versus yield and machinability. Historically, as we’ve tried to grow more inexpensive food to feed more people, flavor and nutrition have fallen by the wayside, and highly processed grain-based foods have proliferated, leading to all sorts of health and wellness problems. This had to change, and I couldn’t wait to collaborate.
Most modern flour comes from a handful of hard red winter wheat varieties that are selected for yield, in the field and in the mill. This is starkly different from most of agrarian history, during which people cultivated the grains that naturally thrived in the microclimates of the communities where they lived, milled, and ate. At the turn of the twentieth century, there were 2,000 flour mills in the United States. Now there are about 530. Several hundred years ago, most communities had a central mill, often powered by water, where families could take the grain they grew (wheat, corn, or other grains) to have it milled fresh for them. They would then take it home and bake with it right away. The flour was usually whole grain and was rarely sifted. (Sifting technology to produce white flour is modern, and discarding what’s sifted off is a luxury.) Many communities had a baker who made bread weekly in a communal wood-fired oven. Each community had its own recipes—different breads, biscuits, flatbreads, or crispbreads—and they used whichever flour, given the climate, was best suited for their specific recipes. In parts of Europe, such as Scandinavia, you will find crispbreads that work particularly well with the low-gluten rye or soft wheat grains that grow there, and in northern Mexico, you will encounter tender flour tortillas that perfectly highlight the soft local Sonora wheat. This knowledge was passed on by generations of bakers who shared what they had learned from those who came before them.
The Industrial Revolution changed bread completely (along with the structure of communities). Bread started to be made in the same way as a Ford Model T: uniformly and mechanized as much as possible. The grain had to be uniform so it could be harvested by combines and milled by a Rube Goldberg system of tubes, rollers, vacuums, and fans. There was no place in this system for grains that had exquisite flavor but lower protein than was required to make fast-rising bread with commercial yeast, or grains that demonstrated amazing performance for bread baking but had stalks of different heights, which made efficient harvesting on an industrial scale impossible.
Nowadays, most of the wheat cultivated in the United States (along with Canada, Russia, and Kazakhstan) is grown from very few strains of hard red winter wheat. This means that farmers cannot save their own seed and must buy anew each planting season from the large corporations that own the seed patents. Historically, farmers chose the seeds from grains that worked best for them, their miller, and the community bakers. Today, farmers must plant the guaranteed variety to be ensured a full return on the harvest.
There is a new generation of farmers and millers looking to historical models of grain communities for inspiration in the same way that I first looked to historical methods of making bread. They are also using modern technology in innovative ways to get the maximum benefit from ancient techniques. We are both working to create methodologies that are scalable in regional communities and can have a restorative effect on modern food systems. Using ancient techniques and modern technology to empower the artisanal process has become the core value of Tartine’s baking.
While farmers and millers are reclaiming historical knowledge about landrace and ancient grains, we, as bakers, are now taking the flours made with those grains and finding the best uses for them. Not every grain is suited to making country bread (in fact, few are). We are working to find opportunities to use these flavorful and nutritious grains, whether that’s in pan loaves, flatbreads, pasta, tortillas, pizza, cakes, cookies, or pastries.
How we grow food has become the biggest environmental problem of our generation. What we eat, how we produce it, and how we prepare it will determine the well-being of our world for posterity. It is vitally important to make sustainable agriculture and food systems not only possible but economically attractive. It is just as critical to make good foods with those raw materials and to make them available and affordable to as many people as possible.
Tartine began as a small corner bakery serving the best things we knew how to make to the people in our neighborhood. We are now innovating on a broad scale, reaching toward the deep source of grain breeders, farmers, and millers and to our communities with the hope of delivering a product that has better flavor and nutrition than any of us has ever tasted, while leaving a lasting positive imprint on our regional food system.
After nearly twenty years on our corner in San Francisco’s Mission District, the most exciting chapter of Tartine is just beginning.
Table of Contents
Introduction 12
Glossary of Terms 18
Recommended Equipment 22
About Grain and Flour 29
Leaven Primer 46
Introduction to Formulas 63
Country Bread 68
Country Bread Method 74
Pan con Tomate 87
Chickpea Stew 89
Bread Soup 91
Ribollita 93
Caramelized Shallot Soup with Black Garlic Aioli and Nettle Pesto Toast 96
Baguettes 100
Rustic Baguettes Method 102
Clams in Broth 113
Anchovy Toast 115
Slab Breads 118
Slab Breads Method 122
Olive Fougasse 132
Topped Flatbread 137
English Muffins 140
French Bread Pizza 143
Soaked Slab Sandwiches 145
Sprouted Lentil and Purple Barley Tempeh Sandwiches 149
Kids' Bread 152
Kid's Bread Method 156
BLTs 163
Tarragon-Sorrel Egg Salad Toasts 165
Open-Face Sandwiches on Kids' Bread 166
Flatbreads 168
Einkorn Flatbreads Method 170
Einkorn Pitas 177
Green Shakshuka 178
Slow-Cooked Lamb Shoulder with Pickled Red Onions, Yogurt-Cucumber-Avocado Salad, and Zhug 180
Einkorn Pita Chips with Dulse 185
Burger and Sandwich Buns 186
Sweet Potato Buns Method 190
Marinated Tofu Sandwiches with Carrot-Kohlrabi Slaw and Avocado Mousse 199
Soft-Cooked Egg Sandwiches 202
Fillet of Fish Sandwiches 204
Dinner Rolls 206
Mission Rolls Method 208
Chipped Ham Sandwiches with Honey-Mustard Butter and Wilted Collard Greens 215
Mission Rolls with Cultured Butter, Cured Salmon, and Caviar 217
Chicken and Dumplings Mushroom Kombu Soup 221
Rye Bread 224
Spiced Scalded Rye Bread Method 226
Marbled Rye 234
Grilled Cheese Sandwiches with Pickles on Spiced Rye 241
Braised-Brisket Sandwiches with Sauerkraut and Russian Dressing 243
Vegan Bread 246
Seeded-Sprouted Barley Vegan Bread Method 248
Seeded-Sprouted Barley Vegan Tartines with Coconut Milk Yogurt and Plum Jam 255
Uni and Lardo on Seeded-Sprouted Barley Vegan Toasts 259
Seeded-Sprouted Barley Vegan Crackers 261
Gluten-Free Bread 262
Seeded Multigrain Gluten-Free Bread Method 264
Seeded Multigrain Gluten-Free Stuffing 271
Avocado Toasts on Seeded Multigrain Gluten-Free Bread 273
Seeded Multigrain Gluten-Free French Toast 277
Crispbreads 278
Rye Crispbreads Method 280
Topped Crispbreads 290
Tortillas 292
Sonora Flour Tortillas Method 296
Pressed-Herb Tortillas 301
Squash Blossom Quesadillas 303
Brothy Beans with Sonora Flour Tortillas 304
Soft Scramble with Jimmy Nardello Peppers in Sonora Flour Tortillas 309
Pizza Dough 310
Pizza Dough Method 312
Lemon Pie 318
Lemony Red Pie 318
Spicy Dungeness Crab Pie 318
Pepperoni Pie 319
Potato-Lardo Pie 319
Green Garlic and Wettles Pie 319
Fermented Pasta 322
Whole-Grain Durum Pappardelle Method 328
Buckwheat Bucatini Method 336
Rye Cavatelli and Orecchiette Method 340
Whole-Grain Durum Pappardelle with Wild Mushrooms and Dandelion Greens 346
Buckwheat Bucatini with Cranberry Beans, Nettles, Goat Cheese, and Herby Bread Crumbs 349
Rye Orecchiette with Flowering Broccoli Rabe, Preserved Lemon, and Garden Greens 353
Acknowledgments 357
Index 358