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I have a lot of cookbooks and try to buy pretty carefully in the name of shelf space, which is why I continue to be surprised that a book I discovered browsing in Anthropologie while my wife was trying something on has become a valued member of the collection. Wine Food, through no fault of its own, has the look and vibe of a light lifestyle blog cookbook that rehashes recipes you can easily find online. In fact it has some surprisingly creative and tasty ideas for the committed home cook.
The recipe that grabbed my attention in the store was borscht risotto, where the liquid from the beef/beet stew becomes the liquid you add to a classic risotto, which is then served with the simmered beef, beets, and accompaniments like sour cream and dill. it's an interesting idea, the recipe works well, and the result is a fabulous cold-weather dinner. More recently, the Thai BBQ with baby back ribs, seasonal vegetables, and a sweet and sour tamarind dipping sauce turned out to be a great choice for a spring Sunday of grilling. the ribs were marinated and spent only 30 minutes on the grill--it's not a formula for falling-off-the-bone tenderness, but I can't complain about the more meaty, flavorful chew I was able to get.
The wine content deserves a mention as well. The authors give equal time to both well-known and obscure styles and varietals, provide a quick introduction to each that jibes well with the (very low) limits of my own wine knowledge, and execute a pairing that is fun and compelling. Their approach to wine is enthusiastic and accessible. No complaints at all here.
Normally I have no desire to review products but this book outstrips a lot of other cookbooks out there. I'll be checking out Andrea Slonecker's other cookbooks and paying attention to all future ventures by these talented women.
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From the Publisher
Malvasia
Melon And Prosciutto With Radishes, Avocado, And Mint
Makes 6 servings
Producers to Look For
Castello di Luzzano
Burja Estate
I Clivi
Poggiosecco
Malvasia, also known as malvazija (MAHL-va-zee-ah), depending which part of Europe you’re in, is a grape that many people are unfamiliar with. Its habitat runs throughout Italy, Slovenia, Greece, Spain, and Portugal, with far-flung examples from California and South America. Ever drunk Malmsey Madeira? It’s made from malvasia.It’s a particularly sweet version of the grape, but also one of the great examples. There’s a time and place for a honeyed, deeply caramelized dessert wine; this is not it. We’re hoping to turn you on to dry malvasia, with its tropical fruits, beeswax, and chamomile profile. It’s got acidity, but not too much, and an unexpected weightiness that makes it feel a bit more serious than you might expect. We’ve suggested malvasia from around Europe in hopes that you might taste a couple of different bottles side by side to see the differences in style.
Many producers make orange, or skin-contact, malvasia. They’ll be too tannic and savory for this recipe, so avoid them and grab a bottle of white.
This is a dish that’s all about few, but very good, ingredients. Make this at the height of melon season, when the cantaloupes are dripping with their intoxicating juices and their flesh is both perfectly orange and slightly yielding.
Choose a ripe avocado and watermelon radishes and really fruity olive oil. Have your butcher shave your prosciutto paper-thin. And please don’t skimp on the freshly ground pepper and flaky salt. What you’ll find with this pairing is that the salty-sweet combination of the melon and ham beautifully complements the perfumed aromatics of a dry malvasia.
Ingredients
- 1/2 ripe cantaloupe
- 4 ounces prosciutto, sliced paper-thin
- 1 ripe avocado
- 1 watermelon radish, or 6 red or Easter Egg radishes, thinly sliced
- 1 bunch fresh mint, leaves picked
- 1⁄4 cup aromatic extra-virgin olive oil (use a good one for this)
- Flaky sea salt
- Freshly ground black pepper
Recipe
Halve the cantaloupe and scoop out the seeds. Cut the melon lengthwise into quarters and trim off the rinds. Using a mandoline, or working carefully with a chef’s knife, slice each quarter lengthwise into 1⁄8-inch-thick pliable ribbons. Arrange the ribbons on a large platter in an even layer, folding and rolling them in a beautiful tangle. Fold and nestle the prosciutto slices around the melon ribbons.
Halve the avocado, remove the pit, and cut the flesh lengthwise into quarters. Cut each quarter crosswise into very thin slices without cutting through the peel. Now scoop the slices from the peels. Dot the avocado around the salad, in groupings of 4 to 6 slices that are slightly fanned out.
Tuck the radish slices into the salad here and there. Tear the mint leaves if they are large, but keep the small ones whole, and scatter them over the top. Drizzle the salad with the oil, sprinkle with salt and several grinds of pepper, and serve.
Reviews with images
Wine Food Book!
I saw this book in gift shop at a top winery while visiting Sonoma, CA. My husband surprised me by ordering it new on Amazon Prime. It was priced less on this site and in our mailbox when we returned home from our awesome trip! Stylish book and fast delivery.
Top reviews from the United States
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Reviewed in the United States on June 3, 2019
Reviewed in the United States on January 16, 2019
Reviewed in the United States on September 17, 2022
I saw this book in gift shop at a top winery while visiting Sonoma, CA. My husband surprised me by ordering it new on Amazon Prime. It was priced less on this site and in our mailbox when we returned home from our awesome trip! Stylish book and fast delivery.
Images in this review
Reviewed in the United States on September 12, 2018
Reviewed in the United States on January 27, 2020
