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SPATULA
Intermediate
 
I designed this spatula with a slanted head and a beveled edge for more precision and versatility. The flat end is perfect for stirring soups or stews and deglazing pans for braises. Feel free to adapt the template by lengthening the handle or widening the blade to fit your biggest pots. While plastic spatulas often warp from heat, this workhorse should last for years with proper care. A few tips: don’t soak it in water for very long, never put it in the dishwasher, and treat it with mineral oil every couple of months to prevent the wood from drying out and becoming brittle.
 
o   Pencil
o   1 piece of mahogany wood (see Tip on page 56), cut lengthwise with the grain to 2½ x 12 x ½ inches
o   Carving gloves or leather thumb guard
o   Whittling knife
o   100-, 150-, and 220-grit sandpapers, cut to 2 x 3 inches
o   Soft 100% cotton cloths
o   Food-grade mineral oil
o   Beeswax mixture (instructions follow)
 
1. Using the template on page 118, draw the handle and head of the spatula onto the wood. Whittle the wood with the knife to roughly the drawn shape by using power cuts (see technique below) and push cuts (see technique below). (A quicker option is to use a handsaw to shape the wood.)
 
2. Use push cuts to refine and round out the handle of the spatula into the dowel shape (A). Whittle the end of the handle to round it out using push cuts (B, C), tapering the tip to be ¼ inch wide (D).
 
3. Use push cuts and pull cuts (see technique below) where nec­essary to refine the neck of the spatula, creating a slight curve in the wood where the head meets the handle (E). To better refine the neck, you may want to use the stop cut (see technique below) to help you carve into the tight space.
 
4. Slice off the long edges of the head (F) to create a double-beveled head that is thickest at the base and thinner toward the edge, so that the edge comes to a V and creates the bevel (G).
 
5. Slightly round out the four corners of the head using push cuts (H).
 
6. Sand the spatula with the grain until the wood is even and smooth. Begin sanding with the 100 grit and work your way up to the 220 grit as each sand-paper dulls. Make sure to sand the neck of the spat­ula well, so that you have a smooth transition from the handle to the head.
 
7. Use a cotton cloth to rub the spatula with a layer of mineral oil, and then use another cloth to add a layer of beeswax for extra protection. Let the spatula dry overnight before using.
 
TIP: Don’t use exotic woods like rosewood that may leach harmful oils into your food or reclaimed lumber that may have been chemically treated or exposed to toxins. Instead, choose mahogany or another hardwood that is naturally food safe.
 
 
Beeswax Mixture
 
To preserve your piece and to create a stunning finish, apply two coats of a beeswax mixture. Because wax is very difficult to clean, you’ll need to dedicate a ves­sel for just this purpose. I use a small Crock-Pot that I found at a yard sale for five dollars, but an old pot set over a smaller pot of simmering water (to make a double boiler) will work fine.
 
In the pot, heat a 25/75 mixture of beeswax to mineral oil (make sure the latter is food-grade if you intend to apply it to kitchen items used for eating), stir­ring every 5 minutes until the wax becomes a smooth liquid. Add more oil to the beeswax mixture if you want a smoother wood butter, or add more wax if you prefer the texture of a paste.
 
Working with care, because the wax is hot (wear gloves if you wish), dip a 100% cotton towel or an old T-shirt in the wax and rub it in a circular motion on the wood to completely cover the object. Let the wax dry slightly, and then apply another coat. Wait about an hour to let the wax dry completely, then buff the piece with a clean 100% cotton cloth to remove any excess wax.
 
An object sealed with wax should be able to with­stand light water exposure or food use. To revitalize it after prolonged handling, simply reapply two coats of the hot wax mixture, let it dry, and buff off excess wax. If your object sustains severe damage from water or an­other source, it may be necessary to sand it completely, refinish it, and reapply wax.

 
THE POWER CUT
Use the power cut to remove big chunks of wood. Hold the wood securely in your nondominant hand, grasp the knife in your dominant hand, and cut with the grain and away from you using long strokes, being careful not to lose control of the knife. Angling your blade deep into the wood will increase the amount you remove, but be mindful as you carve; if the wood’s grain is naturally too loose, you may inadvertently start to cut off a large chunk. If that happens, don’t panic: just flip the piece and cut in the opposite direction to save that chunk.
 
THE PUSH CUT
Use the push cut to skim the wood, especially when you’re close to the final shape. Hold the wood securely in your nondominant hand. Position the blade on the wood at a slight angle (going with the grain, so that the shavings curl). Place your nondominant thumb on the back (dull side) of the blade, pushing the knife into the wood to remove small, shallow shavings. For more pre­cision and more power, you can place your dominant thumb on the other thumb to help push the knife.
 
THE PULL OR PARING CUT
Use the pull or paring cut to get into tight spaces or to create perpendicular lines (such as where the handle of a spatula will meet the base of the flat blade). Grasp the knife in your dominant hand (as you would the handle of a motorcycle) and hold the wood securely in your nondominant hand. Place your dominant thumb on the wood and the blade at a slight angle on the wood. Squeeze the knife toward you using your thumb as leverage (as if you were peeling an apple).
 
THE STOP CUT
Use the stop cut to create perpendicular angles or carve notches in the wood for removing material. Hold the wood securely in your nondominant hand, grasp the knife in your dominant hand, and push the blade of the knife with your thumb against the grain and into the wood to make a simple notch. You can rock your knife back and forth to deepen or lengthen the notch into a line. To remove a small triangular piece of wood, use a push cut to carve into the notch; the knife will stop at the notch. Continue stop cutting and push cutting to achieve your desired depth.