Wrestling with Gravy

PUBLISHERS WEEKLY AUG 28, 2006

Reynolds, a self-described "artistic entrepreneur," has been an actor, a screenwriter, a playwright, a television producer, as well as a food columnist for the New York Times Magazine. As a boy, he first discovered fine dining with his indulgent Uncle Bus, who not only let him order pheasant under glass in a ritzy Madison Avenue restaurant but rescued him from having to eat it by quietly offering to trade plates. Some years later, when his wealthy divorced father gave him a transatlantic first-class ticket on the SS France, the food was so exquisite Reynolds found himself "beginning to wonder if there was anything in life worth doing between meals." While he ultimately found much to do campaigning for Eugene McCarthy, studying at various acting schools, working with great Hollywood directors there was always some dish that made each episode memorable. From the "gruesome oatmeal" he's served after a night in jail for trying to crash Kim Novak's private home to the Cinderella truffles he made to seduce his first wife, Reynolds tells the tale as well as sharing the recipe. Even if we don't actually make his pissaladi re au confit de canard or the simpler sea urchin ceviche, to read through the intricate steps in these preparations reminds readers of the drama and delight of great eating.